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  • Writer's pictureS&J On The Road

#3 Northland Part 2

We set off from Paihia with our newly filled gas bottle. We initially planned to head to the Cape Reinga. However our van had come with snow tyres on and the garage in Whangarei had advised these weren’t ideal for driving on. Considering it was purely gravel roads from Paihia to the Cape we decided against it and headed to the west coast. If we thought we had done the sleepiest windiest part of our journey already- we were wrong! Also the main state highways here are not like motorways at home. Think more English country A roads!


We spotted a few towns on the way to the Kauri forest to make a pit stop in, although quite a few of these we ended up passing through without realising we had reached a town. An hour into the drive we found a town called Opononi where we stopped to admire the view and have a coffee at the local cafe.



We continued the drive, entering the Kauri forest where roads got steeper with sharper bends. Before we reached our DOC campsite we found the Tāne Mahuta, known as Lord of the Forest. It’s a giant Kauri tree over 1200 years old!


On the last leg of our journey 5km from the campground the Japanese lady on our car began talking to us again. We were convinced it meant there was something wrong with the car as the last time she spoke was before we had the car fixed. We pulled in for 10 minutes, hoping it was just because the engine was too warm- despite the temperature gauge telling us otherwise. We started the car up again only for the lady to continue speaking to us in Japanese. We hoped for the best as we continued to drive the 5km to our campground in the middle of nowhere. We were the first to arrive at the campground. The first thing we did was get out the gas canister and stove to make a coffee. FINALLY the stove lit! We were elated. Jake then asked where I had put the coffee from that morning- I remembered last seeing it in the communal kitchen back in Paihia campground. It was the end of the world.




When we were finally able to talk to each other civilly again we settled for hot chocolate. After a few hours another camper arrived, Jake hurried over to greet them as if he had not seen anyone in days. Turned out they were from Derby. We had been on the road less than a week and had met more English people than New Zealander’s! From the campground we walked a loop track through the huge Kauri trees. There was a information board suggesting to do the walk at night to spot the Kiwi birds (which are nocturnal). Jake was incredibly excited by this- I couldn’t say the same for myself!




Sure enough come nightfall we headed into the pitch black forest with a torch covered in red cellophane (Advised to prevent scaring them off). I VERY slowly edged along the forest track. I can only describe it as how every horror film starts- the part you are shouting at the TV “Don’t go into the woods!”. About half a mile in I lost my nerve and we turned back, having only seen glow worms. We spent two wet nights in the Kauri Park then completed the 3 hour drive down to Piha.



The campsite was right on the beachfront. We took a little stroll to the other end of the beach. The beach was much longer than it appeared and 4 miles later we had walked to the other end and back! Opting to cook outside we were joined by some brave local ducklings that pecked at our feet under the picnic bench! We also came across some birds that tried to peck their own reflections in our van mirrors and windows!



We wandered across to the beach that evening, after a hot shower to watch the sunset (admittedly neither of us fancied the showers at the previous camp so we were well overdue!). Although it was incredibly cold it was well worth it.



The following day we found a hike to complete along the Laird Thompson track starting the opposite end of the beach. We spent almost an hour trying to find the start of the track. We were almost ready to turn back when Jake spotted the start of the walk hidden at the bottom of the cliff face. The walk wound up the side of the cliff (safer than it sounds). To reach Te Waha Point Lookout at the peak of the headland. What a view! We continued along the track until we reached the next bay of Whites beach then turned back along the track.

Friday morning before we drove back to Auckland to see Jakes family we visited Kitekite falls.




We then drove the hour back to Auckland to watch the Rugby World Cup Final... and we will finish this blog post there!




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